First of all, I should say that I didn’t actually hike Fern Canyon on this coastal trip. Secondly, there are a surprising number of places in California called Fern Canyon; Huell Howser visited one such trail in Humboldt County’s Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, and there are two that I know of in Mendocino County. The name itself sounds so inviting that it’s little surprise these trails are wildly popular, no matter what time of year. Another problem is that, given their naturally lush nature, these trails are often soggy or even flooded in the off season and thus prone to being closed.

That’s what I discovered when I turned up at Van Damme State Park a few days ago, hoping to explore the Fern Canyon trail there. The ranger at the check-in booth apologized and suggested I seek out the Fern Canyon at Russian Gulch State Park, just a few miles to the north . I’d gone looking for that trail once before but ran out of time before I even reached the trailhead (the Fourth Edition of the Hiker’s Hip Pocket Guide to Mendocino County calls this trail the Waterfall Loop). In the off season, it’s necessary to park near the clubhouse and walk a half mile through the closed campground.

When I arrived at the clubhouse this time, all the parking slots were filled — not a great sign for anyone hoping for a solitary hike. Instead, I drove over the small bridge and parked in an empty lot, next to the group camp area. I still wanted to explore the Fern Canyon, but I suddenly recalled seeing a trailhead that crossed a tiny creek and climbed steeply up the hill just steps away from where I left the car. I wasn’t even sure what trail I was on or where it would take me; it turned out to be the South Trail, a trail so full of gorgeous scenery I can still scarcely believe it’s only 0.75 mile long. It was also completely deserted except for me. I guess everyone else was on the Fern Canyon trail.

Maybe one of these days I’ll get to hike one of the beautiful Fern Canyon trails, but I was so happy with the serendipitous path I landed on that I have absolutely no complaints. I also have a lot more photos of the hike that I’ll be sharing before much longer.